Have a look at our cable sizing chart below and this will help you assess what size fuse rating is needed for a particular power of shower. Most properties have either a 60, 80 or 100amp main fuse.
Items such as kettles, washing machines, ovens and hobs all use large power loads, as will all equipment with heating elements and motors.įor example: You have a flat with a 60 amp main fuse you have 2 x ring main circuits, 2 x lighting circuits, and an immersion heater you would than use a 7 Kw shower. You need to consider all other electrical appliances in your property, you will have to consider all appliances that could be in use at the same time as the electric shower. We advise caution here as there have been instances of people assuming that because it states 60 amps on the cover that there will be a 60 amp cartridge fuse inside were there has only been a 40amp. The main fuse is normally decided by your electrical supplier so, please ask them if you are not sure. You CANNOT take a supply from your ring main or existing electric circuit. You need to assess if you have a spare way on your consumer unit with sufficient rating for an electric shower.Īll electric showers require a dedicated cable from the consumer unit to the shower itself. For example our New Team models all have the option of left hand (top, bottom or rear) and right (bottom or rear only) As shown in the diagram below.īefore deciding what power or kilowatt rating of electric shower you wish to use, or if you can use one at all the first place to start is at the main fuse and consumer unit. Always check the respective manufacturer’s fitting instructions for clarification. The inlet plumbing connections will vary from manufacturer and model. We have a wide selection of pumps available from our sister web site Inlet ConnectionsĮlectric showers all require a 15mm plumbing supply.
#AMP SHOWER INSTALL#
If this is the case you will need to install a negative head pump as this will maintain the pressure between the pump and the shower unit.Īlways check the respective manufacturers literature if you are unsureįitting a 2.0 bar pump would normally be sufficient as it would easily be able to supply the correct flow and maintain the running pressure. Some electric showers can have restrictive solenoids which do not allow this natural flow of water. You will need a minimum flow rate of 1 litre per minute from the shower handset (of your electric shower) to activate the pump, if you achieve this you can use a positive head pump. If a mains supply is not achievable then you can use your cold water storage tank and install a single impeller pump.
For example our NewTeam models require a minimum of 1.0 bar.Īn example of a typical installation is shown in the diagram below.
ELECTRIC SHOWER PLUMBING REQUIREMENTS Option One - Mains Supplyįor correct operation these showers should be installed to a mains cold water feed with a minimum running pressure of 0.7 bar using 15mm diameter pipe work.Ī static pressure of at least 1.0 bar is required and you should check that you have a minimum flow rate of 8 liters per minute.Īlways check manufacturer’s installation guides for exact details as this can vary. We would always recommend that these showers are installed in accordance with IEE wiring regulations and relevant building regulations by a suitably qualified registered electrician. The information is intended as a guide only to assist you with the selection of a new product. If you fit a new fuse assembly into loose contacts it will just burn again.Below you will find our brief guide to fitting an electric shower.
If this is the case you may have no alternative but to replace the whole consumer unit (in which case consider upgrading to a modern split load MCB unit). The previous overheating may have annealed the contact springs to the point where the fuse is a loose fit. Having checked the terminal screws, offer the the new fuse carrier up to the fuseholder without the shroud in place first (power off) and make sure that the contacts are tight. If you go to an electrical wholesaler and buy a new Wylex fuse assembly this shroud comes as part of it. Undo the screw in the centre and it will just pull out - this exposes the live busbar, so turn off the power at the big switch first, unless you really know what you're doing. Yes, the "scorched bit that the fuse plugs into" is just a plastic shroud which (a) keeps fingers away from the live busbar when the fuse is out and (b) prevents the casual (ab)user plugging 30 A fuses into 5 A circuits (notice how the width of the slots is graded).
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